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French toast, c'est si bon

March 13 , 2008


Filmmakers spent six years recreating France's favourite food in an Oscar-winning animated feature, writes Veronica Ridge.


CYRIL LIGNAC'S kitchen at the trendy bistro Le Quinzieme in Paris' 15th arrondissement has a sense of urgency this January night.

"Attention, attention," the master chef shouts above the burbling and hissing of haute cuisine creation, raising his arm in a brusque, Gallic gesture. Half a dozen cooks around the room quicken their pace at his command.

Lignac - a dashing 30-year-old in chef's whites - ensured his status as a French pin-up boy in 2005 with a TV series, Oui Chef!, in which he taught young, disadvantaged people his craft. Sound familiar? Some say he's Europe's answer to Jamie Oliver, possibly in more ways than one. Oliver owns restaurants around the world - including Melbourne - called Fifteen. Lignac's Le Quinzieme translates to Fifteenth. But that's where the resemblance ends.

Tonight, he has the world's press worshipping at his feet in another cause. A party of 20 is viewing the Lignac live action show through a large, sound-proofed bay window in a side room between bites of filet de sole and souffle au chocolat.

We are sampling French hospitality and celebrity because of the role Lignac played in ensuring the success of Ratatouille, the film that last week took out the Oscar for best animated feature.

A small army of Walt Disney filmmakers spent six years researching exhaustively to recreate the iconic beauty of Paris - in particular, the French nation's passion for food.The breadth and variety of detail studied ranged from the sound of fresh bread as it is squeezed and broken to the translucency, colour, viscosity and texture of a tomato skin as it is sliced.

They set up microphones in Lignac's kitchen and spent days peering through his window. The result was a graphic representation that captures a five-star operation - for example, Lignac's lightning-fast cutting of onions and meticulous pan-cooking of vegetables. So enthusiastic was Lignac that his voice accompanied a character in the French version of Ratatouille.

The film's makers, Disney and Pixar Animation Studios, examined the inside world of other top gastronomic haunts too - and these are also on the press tour. There's Tour D'Argent, France's oldest culinary landmark, with its view of Notre Dame and a menu devoted to duck dishes - its corner facade inspired that of Gusteau's, the famed restaurant in the film.

The more informal art nouveau bistro, Senderens, at the south end of the Place de Madeleine, became a favourite hangout of the Pixar crew. Then there's the glorious Taillevant - built in 1852 as a bachelor pad for Napoleon III's philandering half-brother, the Duc de Morny - whose antique furniture and modern art were also recreated by the computer animation team. The crew went behind the scenes witnessing a dinner rush hour to see how the kitchen reacted to the frenetic pace. The idea was to create a level of detail that was heightened and extreme to generate a feeling of wonder and immersion for viewers.

"It's all about hyper-realism," says the film's co-writer Jim Capobianco.

"You're really trying to convey the caricaturism of things - an idealised version of Paris and its food in the most glorious way." Grand Parisian landmarks, including the River Seine and sprawling terrace rooftops, are depicted as they are interwoven throughout the storyline. But it was the food that was most difficult for Pixar's digital wizards to capture, says Capobianco.

"When you study a tomato, for instance, you realise there are different things about it like the hard surface which is really translucent and the inside which is gooey - you have to add that into the computer animation and the modelling of it."

Ultimately, it was the recreation of the humble peasant stew, ratatouille, that proved the most formidable.

The film is about a provincial rodent named Remy with the outlandish dream of becoming a famous chef in a venerable Parisian restaurant. Remy, of course, overcomes the odds with a gourmet grand finale that centres on his quest for culinary perfection. The little rat's inspired version of the eponymous dish wins the approval of omnipotent food critic Anton Ego as it conjures fond boyhood memories of his mother's food in regional France.

The dish needed to make an impression to ensure an emotional connection - not only with the feared baddie Ego - but the film's audience.

"It's basically a stew that turns to mush in the cooking and that doesn't look that appealing," Capobianco says.

Enter Californian chef Thomas Keller (of French Laundry, Per Se and Bouchon) who saved the day with a fancy layered version of zucchini, eggplant and tomatoes called confit byaldi in honour of the original Turkish name. A subsurface light scattering technique was used to give an organic texture and movement to the food.

A recently released DVD ($39.95) has additional features giving further insights into the impressive research process. There's a short film, My Friend the Rat, written and directed by Capobianco, and interviews with Keller and director Brad Bird detailing the challenges of recreating a professional kitchen and the City of Light with computer animation.

In France, Ratatouille has even outsold blockbuster Titanic at the box office and its Hollywood gong last week was recognition of filmmaking exactitude.

Remy's ratatouille

Ingredients
1 large eggplant, cubed
1/3 cup olive oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 chopped pepper (red or green)
2 to 4 crushed garlic cloves
4 small zucchini, chopped
4 tomatoes, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
1/3 cup chopped basil
parmesan cheese

METHOD

Salt the eggplant, drain in a colander for 1 hour and pat dry.

Heat half of the oil in a large saucepan and briefly saute the eggplant until brown, then add the onion and pepper.

Add the garlic, zucchini and tomatoes. Cook until soft, about 15 to 30 minutes. Serve over rice.

Add the salt, pepper and basil. Sprinkle with cheese and serve.

Veronica Ridge travelled to Paris as a guest of Walt Disney and Pixar Animated Studios.





source :http://www.theage.com.au/
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